February 24, 2014

Deconstructed Tribute Blend




The Art of Blending- Starbucks most complex roast originally created in 2011, definitely has a compelling story to tell. Howard Schultz tells the story best in Onward.  "I stood in the cupping room across from my office and tasted the new blend for the first time. The coffee hit my tongue with a beautiful aged cedar note that gave way to a robust fruitiness and ended with a balanced acidity. This is exactly what I was looking for,  I said to Dub, Andrew, and Doug Langworthy, who had led the development. “This is a big, bold, knock‐your‐socks off coffee.” It really was spectacular. We hugged and shook hands, and I took a sample home to make for my wife, Sheri, and me in my French press. Sipping the coffee the next morning, I knew it was exactly what I had hoped for and like nothing I’d ever experienced." —Excerpt from Onward: by Howard Schultz.



Each portion of this blend played a specific role in why it was chosen and truly displays a culinary skill of roasting and blending.  To tell each coffees individual story we deconstructed the beans and measured out 15 grams of coffee for each profile.  For brewing them separately we used Hario V60 Size 02 pour overs ground on 14 in Virtuoso grinder with SCAA standard ratio of 1 gram of coffee to 16 grams of water.

The Coffees:
  • Colombia
  • Natural Processed Ethiopian
  • Aged Sumatra
  • New Guinea Peaberry

The washed high altitude coffee from the Colombia NariƱo region are great for blending and was selected since it is where Starbucks first contributed to social projects to improve the life of the farmer. The Colombian beans are the largest beans in the bag. These beans are most likely Supremo bean size, the next size down would be excelsior. In the Pour over this coffee displayed Mild nutty taste similar to almonds and walnuts with an astringent clean finish. The acidity was present and did not dominate the cup profile, instead would play nice with another coffee.

I would imagine of the Sun has a favorite coffee it would be Naturally processed Sun‐dried Ethiopian coffee.  These coffee beans are actually roasted separately to achieve the complex berry taste and are the smallest coffee beans in the bag.  These beans were selected for the Skill in traditional natural process coffee. Natural processing concentrates the sugars and flavors in the Cherry as they are allowed to dry traditionally on raised tables. The raised tables can regulate heat and airflow while reducing moisture similar to the "Passito" Wine making techniques.  As this coffee drys often it smells like raisins and provides the most risk as coffee begins to ferment 2 hours after it is picked from the tree. Rotting in the sun can occur if weather variables are not regulated. As we brewed this portion the grounds it gave off a strong fruity (raspberry and cranberry) aroma. The taste profile on its own definitely had wild blueberry component similar to Ethiopia Harrar with a sturdy body and quick tart acidity.

The Washed Peaberry coffee beans comes from Papua New Guinea and was on the Starbucks coffee menu when Pike Place first opened.  Papua New Guinea coffee farms are identified by eastern and Western along a continuous mountain top. The varietals are bountiful with Typica, Kent, and Bourbon, however its the processing of the coffee that can taint such a great harvest.  Peaberry only makes up 5% of all coffee and occurs when only when seed inside the cherry is fertilized and develops a round shape since there is not another seed to flatten it. Tribal Knowledge and some experts say these beans roast better and evenly.  These beans have well rounded shape and are plump full oval coffee beans in various shapes and sizes. The washed process is unique to Indonesian coffee and really brings forth the acidic complexity.  This coffee still had a coriander spice component and actually sweetened up when it cooled down similar to Sugar in the Raw on the finish.

Aged Sumatra which was the first coffee chosen for this blend, is semi‐washed coffee that tells the story of High Sea romance of nature and coffee seed chemistry. The green coffee is aged 3-5 years in Singapore to replicate the aging of coffee on dutch ships sailing the Indian ocean. Aging Indonesian coffee has become a Starbucks trait to showcase the big velvety cedar and spicy profile. Aged Sumatra mostly makes up the tangible broken pieces. As age coffee is roasted it often breaks up since it is brittle.  Tasted Separately this coffee demonstrated a heavy full body, deep woody notes with a unique cinnamon spice smoothness.

Yes the pour over stand is home made.

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