Sulawesi: Champagne of Indonesian Coffee

Indonesian fans are deeply passionate for the taste characteristics of Indonesian coffee: Earthy, Wild Mushrooms and Brown Gravy. However, there is another side , a side that is rare in semi-washed coffee, a voice that dominates with grace, finesse and has manners to back up its robust profile. Enter the elegance of Sulawesi Coffee.


Sulawesi is the 11th largest island in Indonesia and can easily found on a map due to its unique K-Shape and sometimes coffee buyers wax poetic and refer to its old name of Celebes and/or Celebes Kalossi. The Portuguese were said to first refer to Sulawesi as "Celebes" and over time coffee from Sulawesi was also known as Celebes Kalossi. The Town of Kalossi often was the collection point for all coffee farmers bringing coffee down from the mountains  acting as the capital of coffee in Torajaland.  Sulawesi beans are a rare collection of riches since Sulawesi beans are produced at a much lower rate compared to the fierce tasting Sumatra coffees.

Most Indonesian farmers have grow and harvest coffee in their backyards usually on just on a couple of acres. The coffee is Picked, washed with very little water where ripe cherries sink to the bottom and unripe cherries float. Next, coffee cherries are pulped with a hand cranked depulper and then the coffee seeds are laid out to dry in their parchment. once the seeds reach about 30% moisture content, the seeds are hulled to remover the parchment and dried again. This unique process gives the Indonesian beans that green-pea hue.


Starbucks Stamp:

The Original Sulawesi stamp celebrated Heritage-Building upon the past, Strong Focal point-Key memorable Image, and Legibility with an electic attitude.  The color of the oriignal stamps communicated taste profile such as the green and brown in Sulawesi signaling earthy and herbal tones. These were visual indicators for Coffee Masters on the sales floor.

The image on the Sulawesi bag is a mythical creature that is 1/3 cat, 1/3 monkey and 1/3 human wearing a Sulawesi funeral mask similar to the above image from Indonesia.
















Tasting:

Kalita Wave
30 grams coffee to 450 Grams water
#16 grind Setting on Baratza Virtuoso (drip)
Pre-Wet Filter
50 Gram water to bloom, 40 second bloom time
1st Pour 200 Grams water
20 Second wait, then add 200 grams water

Notes:
Grounds have slight herbal notes not directly present in the wet aroma of the coffee.
Wet Aroma has mingling roasted coffee, damp pipe tobacco scent.
Herbal flavor comes through after coffee cools to reveal itself.
Herbal taste makes the Sulawesi coffee appear lively and fresh like a vegetative bouquet
This coffee has a Creamy full body that coats the roof of your mouth and lips. The best way to tell the body of a coffee is to rub your tinge on the roof of your mouth.

Pairing:
Einstein Bros. Spinach Florentine bagel and Onion/Chive cream cheese.

Colombia Nariño

Coffee Loyalty- Colombia through time has always been the branded face synonymous with coffee. If Ethiopia represents royalty as the Queen of coffee and Sumatra creates a cult following with its earthy/herbal lusciousness, then Colombia truly represents adamant loyalty.



First offered in 1990 Colombia Nariño Supremo referred to the country (Colombia), the region (Nariño) and the bean size (Supremo).



Colombian coffee is often celebrated for its milk chocolate taste and dry nutty finish similar to the skin of a Walnut.



The Nariño region for Coffee in terms of Harvesting, soil composition and altitude is all about Location, location, location!



With perfect jeans and T-shirt weather (60-75 degrees) the Nariño region in Colombia has the most outstanding attributes to create an outstanding harvest.



The region benefits from a great deal of sunlight since it is located near the equator and achieves a nutrient rich organic soil composition from the Galeras volcano. A considerable amount if rainfall and mix in one of the highest altitudes in the world for growing coffee at 2300 meters (2nd to Kenya, also depends on who you're asking a Kenyan or Colombian) you have all the variables on your side to create something masterful. Tons of sunlight, the right genetic material, soil composition, and now you just need proper nurturing and pruning!



When you think about high altitude farming, consider the hot days and cooler nights that will slow down production for these coffee trees and allow for fruit with deeper more concentrated profiles.

This high-altitude theoretically would have conditions that do not favor exceptional coffee practices, however the trapped in the heat from the bottom of the valley rises as the day goes on creating warmer air turbulence in the evening so that the climate doesn't get cold overnight.



This coffee is ethically sourced working towards a preferred status through C.A.F.E practices ensuring prerequisites of quality and economic standards are met followed by social and environmental responsibility.



This is a Pre-Roast region blend that achieves with the washing process a medium body with medium acidity and can impart herbal flavors as well as rich chocolate notes and nutty finish.



- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Deconstructed Tribute Blend

The Art of Blending- Starbucks most complex roast originally created in 2011, definitely has a compelling story to tell. Howard Schultz tells the story best in Onward.  "I stood in the cupping room across from my office and tasted the new blend for the first time. The coffee hit my tongue with a beautiful aged cedar note that gave way to a robust fruitiness and ended with a balanced acidity. This is exactly what I was looking for,  I said to Dub, Andrew, and Doug Langworthy, who had led the development. “This is a big, bold, knock‐your‐socks off coffee.” It really was spectacular. We hugged and shook hands, and I took a sample home to make for my wife, Sheri, and me in my French press. Sipping the coffee the next morning, I knew it was exactly what I had hoped for and like nothing I’d ever experienced." —Excerpt from Onward: by Howard Schultz.



Each portion of this blend played a specific role in why it was chosen and truly displays a culinary skill of roasting and blending.  To tell each coffees individual story we deconstructed the beans and measured out 15 grams of coffee for each profile.  For brewing them separately we used Hario V60 Size 02 pour overs ground on 14 in Virtuoso grinder with SCAA standard ratio of 1 gram of coffee to 16 grams of water.

The Coffees:

• Colombia

• Natural Processed Ethiopian

• Aged Sumatra

• New Guinea Peaberry

The washed high altitude coffee from the Colombia Nariño region are great for blending and was selected since it is where Starbucks first contributed to social projects to improve the life of the farmer. The Colombian beans are the largest beans in the bag. These beans are most likely Supremo bean size, the next size down would be excelsior. In the Pour over this coffee displayed Mild nutty taste similar to almonds and walnuts with an astringent clean finish. The acidity was present and did not dominate the cup profile, instead would play nice with another coffee.

I would imagine of the Sun has a favorite coffee it would be Naturally processed Sun‐dried Ethiopian coffee.  These coffee beans are actually roasted separately to achieve the complex berry taste and are the smallest coffee beans in the bag.  These beans were selected for the Skill in traditional natural process coffee. Natural processing concentrates the sugars and flavors in the Cherry as they are allowed to dry traditionally on raised tables. The raised tables can regulate heat and airflow while reducing moisture similar to the "Passito" Wine making techniques.  As this coffee drys often it smells like raisins and provides the most risk as coffee begins to ferment 2 hours after it is picked from the tree. Rotting in the sun can occur if weather variables are not regulated. As we brewed this portion the grounds it gave off a strong fruity (raspberry and cranberry) aroma. The taste profile on its own definitely had wild blueberry component similar to Ethiopia Harrar with a sturdy body and quick tart acidity.

The Washed Peaberry coffee beans comes from Papua New Guinea and was on the Starbucks coffee menu when Pike Place first opened.  Papua New Guinea coffee farms are identified by eastern and Western along a continuous mountain top. The varietals are bountiful with Typica, Kent, and Bourbon, however its the processing of the coffee that can taint such a great harvest.  Peaberry only makes up 5% of all coffee and occurs when only when seed inside the cherry is fertilized and develops a round shape since there is not another seed to flatten it. Tribal Knowledge and some experts say these beans roast better and evenly.  These beans have well rounded shape and are plump full oval coffee beans in various shapes and sizes. The washed process is unique to Indonesian coffee and really brings forth the acidic complexity.  This coffee still had a coriander spice component and actually sweetened up when it cooled down similar to Sugar in the Raw on the finish.

Aged Sumatra which was the first coffee chosen for this blend, is semi‐washed coffee that tells the story of High Sea romance of nature and coffee seed chemistry. The green coffee is aged 3-5 years in Singapore to replicate the aging of coffee on dutch ships sailing the Indian ocean. Aging Indonesian coffee has become a Starbucks trait to showcase the big velvety cedar and spicy profile. Aged Sumatra mostly makes up the tangible broken pieces. As age coffee is roasted it often breaks up since it is brittle.  Tasted Separately this coffee demonstrated a heavy full body, deep woody notes with a unique cinnamon spice smoothness.

Yes the pour over stand is home made.

Intelligentsia El Gallo Organic Breakfast Blend

A great deal of hard-working love has gone into this blend. Outside of the every day turning in their shipment these coffees a certified organic. Farmers normally cede production for three years and typically costs $30,000 of time and investment to work towards organic certification. This special Latin American blend was created using no chemical fertilizers, pesticides or herbicides. So at an average of 1700 m you have great cultivars of typica, Caturra, and Catuai flourishing with abundant nature, plant life, birds, insects harmoniously amongst the coffee achieving farm biodiversity.

An organic coffee farmer truly represents responsibility and sustainability not just for great agriculture but for future coffee down the road. With coffee consumption at an all-time high in the Asian-Pacific areas and more coffee conscious devotees arriving every day, theoretically the world will run out of coffee.

Majority of coffee around the world is produced organically simply because the farmer does not have the resources to guide a plants nutrition by fertilizer, or invest and herbicides. Thus he has to use things such as citrus and banana trees for shade and when you think of cost shade also has to be managed appropriately.

This coffee hails from various producers in the North Yungas region of Bolivia. When I think of North Yungas I think forested mountainsides, steep slopes and an eco-region long known for its death road.The North Yungas road is known as the world's most dangerous road. It is estimated anywhere between 200 to 300 travelers pass away along this road from vehicles falling over.

Now tasting this coffee from a Chemex and Bunn Trifecta, the aroma presented itself with a sugar Browning aspect think slight caramel and candied pecans or almonds. The Chemex highlighted the slight tangy acidity and held together a nice subtle and delicate body. My air turbulence "D" setting in my trifecta for increased body did exactly that and muted the acidity. I will have to retry this in the trifecta on a lower setting and shorter infusion time to definitely dial it in. Overall two different welcoming styles of this coffee to really show how brew methods and infusion time really changes the way Coffee behaves as it danced around on the palate more from the Chemex.

Light bodied coffee with a sweet and mellow taste. This is a classic Latin American light roasted profile and great starting point to your day and developing your palate.

Starbucks Puerto Rico

"La Isla de Encanto"- When I think about Puerto Rico or the "Isle of Enchantment" and its roots and I can proudly embrace such a great food culture and traditions celebrated by Carne Guisada, Arroz con Gandules, Alcapurrias, and Pasteles. It brings back memories of Being in Cabo Rojo and Vieques as a child. Traditions are the spoil of our life, they connecting us to who we are, what we believe in, and strokes the emotion of the heart. Everyday at home started with either Stovetop espresso or coffee steeped stove top in a pan and filtered through a coffee sock (Woodneck pour over or Chorreador) and the coffee of choice was café Bustelo or Pilon.

The island of Puerto Rico has always flourished with outstanding pride. When I think of Puerto Rico I always think of outstanding food culture, vibrant community, pristine beaches and tradition.

Puerto Rico's coffee tradition dates back to 1736 when Spanish explorers and settlers brought coffee trees to the island. The genetic material from these coffee trees are direct descendants from trees that belong to Louis the 14th. Even though Once upon a time Puerto Rico dominated the coffee industry, Coffee production has always been a secondary classification as sugar became it's top export. Unfortunately Hurricanes throughout history have really devastated the coffee production in Puerto Rico and it really takes eight years of speculation to know if you have anything really great happening in your cup after you think about having the right coffee plant, nurturing, and labor for harvest.

Even though you can find great coffee varieties on the Island (Mundo Nuevo, Red & Yellow Bourbon, Villalobos, Caturra, Pacas, Columnaris) Rarely anymore does anyone think of Puerto Rico having such a great coffee Production culture. Climate change, Low altitude, and lack of interest from a younger generation has with increased job options have really changed the landscape over time.

The aroma in this cup really shines through with heavy Walnut/Pecan notes and subtle honey like sweetness.

The body in this cup really achieves a balanced bitter sweet taste with a delicate acidity that really doesn't sparkle or provide brightness.

I can see why this coffee has held so much pride on the island as it would be a great coffee to adulterate with cream and sugar.

Coffee Bigger than our Dreams- Hacienda Alsacia

"Its amazing what you can afford if you share Knowledge."-

On a recent trip to Costa Rica one of our support staff stated it's amazing what we can afford if we just share knowledge and it has resonated with me ever since. Coffee along with its pride and tradition needs community. No one meets over a cup of coffee to celebrate failures or disconnect friendships, instead it is a building block of friendship and a free ticket to explore the world up by geography. Coffee needs a great supporting cast to bring to life the great genetic material, soil composition, and plant nurturing. This knowledge really comes from sharing proven practices and allowing the coffee tree to be a great mother for its fruit. Just like every job and productive group I have been a part of- teaching, coaching, accountability, and integrity were the most common themes in every conversation amongst farmers and agronomist alike.

Now, going to Coffee Origin with its caring people and culture was humbling enough on its own. Every day one of my most overwhelming challenges was to truly listen and appreciate each moment as I wanted to take so many notes and document photos to show pride and joy each farmer wanted to share.  When someone is practically donating happiness it is truly hard to listen instead of celebrating and this listening was totally different, it was truly listening with empathy.

All in all listening gives respect and listening really gave me the capacity to collect the data I needed and I didn't have to write it down all I had to do was interpret it back from the heart. The journey that I am sharing with you today is what each Day meant to me down in Central America.

My shared experience started with the sense of commitment. Each farmer and the support staff were ordinary people with talent to literally change the world. The farmers stood right in the center of possibility and showed up passionately and fearlessly. They did not want to pick coffee on the plateau of a hill instead they behaved masterfully at the top of the mountain.

The greatest message I received on this journey was that of integrity. It was not only what I heard, it was also what I saw the farmer do with his hands! Each farmer played great at the fundamentals, it wasn't about the quantity of the work it was about the true quality and commitment that was shared throughout the work.

This deep emotional experience made me realize sharing coffee at its core really sparked relationships. It was not just the relationships I gained during my time in Costa Rica, it was every connection that I have had over coffee since my first coffee tasting in 2004.

I truly realize embarking on this journey definitely was not the pinnacle, however it was a midway point on my journey that truly carved out authentic excellence and shaped my imagination into what it is today.

Anniversary Blend - Closer look at Aged Coffee

Starbucks Sumatra

Coffee cultivation in Sumatra began around 1699 when Dutchmen transplanted trees from nearby Indonesian islands.

One of the most beloved traits and hallmarks of Asian/Pacific region is the luscious body of Sumatra coffee. The earthy notes are results from this coffee being semi-washed heightening it's already full body and creating a cup with minimal acidity. The lure with Sumatran coffee is enough to drive consumers and connoisseurs alike to craze a cup on a cold day.

While Semi-washed processing can only occur in countries where the humidity is low and the coffee can be dried rapidly without fermenting, there is much risk as the wet and unprotected green bean can easily be damaged while hulling, or drying on the patio. 

During the semi-washed process the coffee is picked,hulled, then dried for about 4 days. An important note is when coffee is picked from the tree it begins to ferment 2 hours after picking so processing the coffee is critical.  The beans are meticulously checked and raked about every 30 mins until they reach the appropriately moisture level. This is where experience alone pays off evaluating the drying beans as all the farmers senses come into play.

If a delicately produced Latin American coffee displayed taste attributes of Asian/Pacific coffee it would immediately be thrown out. The earthy and herbal tones would be considered defective or bad processing.

If a Sumatra supplier can consistently provide the same coffee, processed the same way, there are buyers who see this as a uniquely different flavor profile, and a welcome break from the Latin American or African coffees.

The aroma of Sumatran coffee Reminds me of hiking or smelling the leaves and red clay after it rains or fresh potting soil. People have fell in love with this coffee murkiness and even captured everyones attention by having a ferocious cup much like the sumatran tiger.  The body in the cup is thick and heavy and if you rub your tongue on the roof of your mouth it will create a coating similar to half and half.  This coffee will linger and is excellent for blending. On a side note often with blending sometimes 10% of Indonesian blends comes from India which is know as "Poor Mans Sumatra." The taste of the place captivates all who want a sturdy coffee, that behaves well with other coffee origins and creates a special cup.

Food Pairings- Warmed pumpkin loaf w/ Butter, Oatmeal Cookie, Madeline's, Oatmeal w/ 2 pumps Cinnamon Dolce, Asiago Bagel w/ Cream Cheese

Howard Schultz described his first sip in the book "Pour Your Heart Into It":

“As we spoke, the counterman scooped out some Sumatra coffee beans, ground them, put the grounds in a filter cone, and poured hot water over them. I took a small, tentative sip. Whoa. I threw my head back, and my eyes shot wide open. Even from a single sip, I could tell it was stronger than any coffee I had ever tasted......
Then I took another sip. This time I could taste more of the full flavors as they slipped over my tongue. By the third sip I was hooked.”

Starbucks Caffe Verona

Caffe Verona- If a coffee can capture a snapshot of romance it would be labeled Caffe Verona. Today, passion for the culinary romance of Italy inspired the name of this full-bodied blend of Latin American and Asian/Pacific coffees. Caffe Verona is rich with a baking chocolate taste/texture and balances out with roasty sweet finish

Caffe Verona originally called "Jake's Blend" dates back to 1975 and was created for a Seattle restaurant- Jake O’Shaughnessy’s. Jake's blend was one of the first "private label" coffee offerings for a restaurant and not sold at Starbucks. Due to its popularity customers started asking for Jake's Blend and baristas would scoop the 2 coffees and label it as such. In turn, Starbucks sold enough of the coffee they began to pre-bag the coffee and labeled it 80/20 blend. Starbucks added it to the whole bean menu as 80/20 blend.


In 1987, Howard Schultz bought Starbucks coffee company and wanted to trademark the name of the coffee. 80/20 blend could not be trademarked and they renamed it Caffe Verona.


The 80/20 Blend is a "Post-Roast blend" and still follows the same recipe made from 80% Yukon Blend and 20% Italian Roast.


Post-Roast Blends start with the individual roasted coffee profiles first, then the proper ratio of each is combined to create a blend and a tapestry for the palette. It is easier to make a post roast blend as it reduces waste and maximizes individual roasts.


Literature lovers will recognize Verona as the city set for Romeo and Juliet.

Starbucks Fair Trade Italian Roast

Fair Trade Italian Roast- Tutti amano tutte le cose italiane, si tratta di raffinatezza!  The name alone enchants coffee enthusiasts to a love of all things Italian- Food, Sports Cars, Espresso and the enchantment of the Mediterranean. Like a scene out of a black and white movie this roast takes you back to a time of nostalgia. A classic moment with every sip as the beans tell a sturdy and relentless but smooth story. 

The term Italian roast really just associated with sophistication just refers to a darker style of roast. At one time, coffee roasted to the 2nd pop stage were rare to find. Typically on the east coast Italian roast is the darkest roast and on the west coast French roast represents the end of the roast spectrum.

As you look at the beans, they glisten with an oily surface representing the right amount of heat over the right amount of time showcasing a Smoky sweet cup.  The oils on the beans are significant to a dark roast profile.

 History Lesson- In the past European countries traditionally purchased inferior robusta beans and roasted them dark to mask the taste.

I appreciate the depth of a true dark roast coming from the culinary vision and finesse of the roaster.   A highly skilled roaster can control the caramelization without evoking a burnt taste.With passion and skill the they transform high quality hard beans into a dark chocolate palette with oil droplets on the canvas.

While this coffee is roasted darker than traditional espresso roast it still has the caramel sweetness. The aroma is slightly smoky and less intense than the darker roasted French roast. The aroma always reminds me of a crackling fireplace. Pair this coffee with Milk chocolate to bring out the Baking chocolate taste or some caramel chews to enhance the caramel sweetness.

Starbucks and Fair Trade:
-Starbucks is one of the world's largest purchaser of fair trade certified coffee
-Fair trade farmers are guaranteed a premium over the international market price paid for coffee

-The goal of fair trade certification is to empower small farms to invest in their farms and their communities, Protect the environment and develop business skills necessary to compete in the market

-To be certified as fair trade, coffee is to be produced only by Farmers that belong to Farmer-owned, democratically run coffee cooperatives.

-Cooperatives are formed when farmers of small-scale farms bring their resources together to obtain bargaining power and collaborate on production methods.

Nueva Llusta - Counter Culture Coffee

Coffee from Bolivia usually benefit from great altitudes and organic farming. Bolivian coffee also tend to have fruity notes and rich chocolate characteristics in the cup. Much of Bolivia’s coffee production is organized into regional cooperatives. This coffee from Las Yungas Region of Bolivia, on the Nueva Llusta farm fielding the historical Typica and Caturra varieties. 

We prepared this coffee two ways. The first (pictured) was with the Kalita Wave pour over with 32 grams of coffee (18 grind on Virtuoso) and 500 ML of water.  The second method was the AeroPress with 24 grams of coffee with 12 grind setting on Virtuoso.

With the pour over the bloom and slurry did have a sweet aroma similar to raisins.  In both brews to Baking chocolate taste stood out and had delicate finish when hot. Latin American coffees usually dominate as the coffee cools to showing off the roast profile.With the medium-coarse grind in the Kalita Wave the extremely bright acidity took over the cup as it cooled with subtle semi-sweet chocolate taste. The AeroPress really allowed for the smooth body and baking chocolate taste shine through with still a hint of the juicy acidity on the finish.

I did not experience dried cherry notes from this coffee however I did enjoy the almost raisinet taste and texture of this brew while it was hot.
I tend to get the most enjoyment from counter culture coffees with finer grinds in pour overs or espresso. We paired this coffee with chocolate which paired briliantly driving the sweetness of the Bolivian coffee. We also paired it with a "Caramel Chocolate Pretzel" Krispy Kreme doughnut. The saltiness of the pretzel and caramel sugars muted the acidity and enhanced the cup to an almost dulce de leche taste.

Kenya Nyeri Gatomboya Peaberry

Exotic Complexity - We were intrigued just by the thought of purchasing and roasting a Kenya peaberry coffee to see how dynamic the cup would be. Just the description of what the final taste could be teased us for 24 hrs as we let the fresh coffee de-gas. We knew peaberry are rare and coming from Kenya after some research peaberry is only about 6% of the entire crop. These beans are from Nyeri region and Gatomboya is a coffee wet mill where the coffee cherries are washed, pulped, fermented, washed and then dried.

Kenyan coffees as we know are the heavyweights of east African coffee and usually roasters use Kenyan coffees as a benchmark for comparing quality.

     We roasted this coffee ourselves this time using a plain ol' rival popcorn popper from your local vendor. They are nice and plump in the raw form and appeared slightly larger after roasting.  We took this coffee to a full city roast as documented on the left.  After letting the coffee sit overnight we took it for a course grind and noticed a very exotic fruit aroma. 

     As we let the grounds bloom for a minute with 8 oz. of water the aroma intensified and gave off a thick jam like scent of berry and possibly mango.  On first slurp these beans shine with an acidity that lights up your palate front to back and dissipates quickly with a mango/apricot flavor rolling in afterward.  Scents of red berries interestingly took over as the cup cooled and the acidity became balanced with the smooth body.  This coffee is very similar to a 3-piece jazz ensemble when it comes to complexity. It was clean as it cooled, bright up front when it was hot, fleshy stone fruit flavor in the beginning, exotic and berry tasting as it cooled.  We paired this Kenyan coffee with Raspberry chocolate cake.  The raspberry flavor gave the coffee a sweet delicate red berry taste with a subtly tart finish.